Out of Africa (Part 2) – Botswana

Unfinished Business

In my previous post, I neglected to discuss our stop at a local home for a home cooked lunch, allowing us the opportunity to sample local cuisine. Our host, Stella, was very gracious, though shy and deferential.

The meal was preceded by Stella kneeling in front of each guest, washing our hands in a bowl. Men first, as per the tribal custom.

The meal was served in several bowls, allowing us to sample from a number of different tastes. Chicken, beef, a corn mash (I believe it was called gruel), small fish (like minnows with heads attached) and kale. It was recommended we eat with our fingers, separating some gruel, applying some kale and then one of the meat dishes.

It was a very interesting experience and somewhat uncomfortable at the same time. Perhaps that was the intent.

Stella and her family of 6 lived in what is referred to as “high density housing” – very small homes in a densely populated area. They had little, but made the best of what they had. They did have electricity and internet, paid ahead each month for what they expected to use.

Apparently it was not uncommon for elephants to wander into the neighbourhood and eat fruit (mango) from the trees – and sometimes break barriers around homes to reach the tasty fruit.

We have so much to be grateful for here in our country. Many in Zimbabwe, and Africa in general struggle to survive on a limited income and must make do with what they have. Stella lived with several nieces and nephews in a very small home. Humble, yet giving, she was a lovely and gracious host.

Botswana

Leaving Victoria Falls by bus, Eddie drove us the roughly one hour drive to the Botswanan border. the road traversed a national park. Botswanan, Zimbabwean, Zambian and Nanimbian governments collaborate on leaving national park borders open (no fences), so animals can traverse, unimpeded across countries. Thus allowing for populations of elephants (and others) to spread out, having access to larger feeding grounds, and be less prone to property damage as they forage.

Along the short drive to Botswana, we saw the benefits of this strategy as multiple elephants crossed in front of our bus as we drove along the highway.

While Zimbabwe appeared arid in many places, Botswana surprised us with its lush farmland, almost immediately as we crossed the border.

The border crossing itself, was a small ordeal. Given that one of Botswanan major exports is beef, they are extremely cautious with anyone crossing the border, in the event disease is inadvertently introduced.

As a result, we had to walk through a solution to wash our shoes as we entered the country. Not really sure how effective the process was, given that it was a pretty rudimentary washing process – but who were we to argue.

Our New Digs

Unfortunately the lodge we were originally booked to stay in had experienced a devastating fire a few months earlier, so we were to stay at Tlou Safari Lodge instead. This was a step down from The Wallow, but comfortable nonetheless. Our meals were primarily buffet style, but to their credit, they did the best they could to make our stay enjoyable.

After all – we were they for the safaris – and boy they did not disappoint!!

River Cruise Along Chobe River

The Chobe River begins all the way up in Angola where it is known as the Kwando River. This river flows southeast and forms the nearly 225 km boundary between Angola and Zambia. Towards the end, this river reaches the northern entrance boundary of the Caprivi Strip in Namibia and thereafter spreads into the Linyanti Marshes. The marshes, which cover approximately 1,425 km² (including Lake Liambezi) drain east towards the Zambezi, both rivers sharing the same floodplain. The Zambezi then clears at the Mambova Rapids and the Kwando (known as the Chobe River) then clears at the Kasane Rapids.

And is known for the extreme number of animals feeding along its banks and in the river.

We took this late afternoon cruise along the Chobe and within minutes were treated to hippos, crocodiles, elephants, water buffalo and more…..

It was a leisurely cruise, respite with refreshments and snacks.

A sampling of conversations:

“Look! A hippo surfaced to the right!!!!”

“Look! A family of elephants crossing the river – oh that little one is so cute!”

“LUH (Newfie for look) A croc on the bank of the river” – Right Judy and Michelle??

What a way to start this leg of the trip!

While the evening river cruise was spectacular, it only whet our appetite for what was to come.

Game Drive!

The next day we were scheduled for an early morning game drive through Chobe National Park.

We immediately discovered what an “African massage” was all about! The roads through the park were sandy and rough. The game vehicles were comfortable enough, but the rocking and rolling was not for the faint of heart. Nonetheless, everyone was hyper alert, and keen on the adventure ahead.

It did however give my aging bladder a workout. Note to self: Always wear dark pants, just in case!

Elephants became too plentiful to count. Our driver would stop to allow a small family to pass in front of us, allowing closeups if mamas protecting babies and papas asserting themselves.

Impalas we discovered, were almost as plentiful as sand on the beach – but frequent dinner guests of leopards and lions.

It was fascinating to watch our first giraffe. It stood alone, ears up and staring intently to the west. After some time, Khosi, our guide said “that giraffe is monitoring danger”.

And sure enough, after some keen work on the binoculars, there was a pod of lions, skulking in the bushes, a short distance away.

Apparently shy and somewhat reclusive, we were fortunate to see a small herd of sable, one of the larger species of antelope.

Next Stop: Pilanesberg National Park via Johannesburg!

Aweee Collette Aweeee!!