Out of Africa – Part 3 – Pilanesberg National Park

Another early morning – another bus ride, this time to Victoria Falls airport, compliments of our driver, the affable Edifile (Eddie) Nyati. We were now on our way back to South Africa and Pilanesberg National Park.

After saying goodbye to Eddie and paying our $150 USD fee (per couple) – in crisp new bills (as per the local requirements) to leave Zimbabwe, we waited patiently to board our flight to Johannesburg, where we were once again to board a bus. The airports we navigated during this adventure, were all modern and efficient. This one was no different. We could learn some lessons here in Canada!

After arriving in Johannesburg, Khosi expertly herded what she had begun calling “her children”, through customs and to our next mode of transportation – another bus! New driver, same transportation. This was turning out to be a long day and was about to get three hours longer, as we drove through a teeming rainstorm enroute. Our new driver Nadeem (Andy) Anderson, had the task of delivering us safely from Johannesburg, through Pretoria and on to our destination – Pilanesberg National Park. Mission accomplished!

Ivory Tree Game Lodge

As in Zimbabwe, our accommodations were beyond our expectations. The lodge was hardly a lodge – more like a 5 star retreat. In a spectacular setting, we were immediately treated to vervet monkeys in the trees as we exited the bus to a greeting fit for the rich and famous. We soon found out they were quick to take advantage of an unsuspecting patron on the outside patio, leaving a mango unattended on their plate.

Staff were waiting with smiles and warm hand cloths as we disembarked. Several musicians greeted our motley crew with a bongo drum serenade as we de-boarded and made our way into the impressive structure. Bags were left to be delivered by staff to our individual lodges, laid out along the expansive walkways.

As we were late arriving, the ever prepared Khosi had called ahead while we were on the bus, taken our orders for dinner and had the staff prepared to serve us within a few minutes after our arrival – several course meals, with wine and dessert would be the norm here.

After all, we had a 4:30am wake up call in just a few hours!!

The Crack of Dawn

While the early mornings were…..ummmm VERY early…..they were necessary to get out on safari, hoping to see animals as they began to graze and perhaps hunt as the darkness of night gave way to the warmth of the sun creeping over the South African horizon.

The Lodge staff had coffee and light pastry available as we sauntered sleepily from our cabins. After a quick jolt of java to our collective systems, we were on our way to the front of the lodge – where our chariot/safari vehicles awaited.

A proper breakfast would have to wait, as the anticipation was palpable on that first day.

Our groups were split into two vehicles and off we went in search of the elusive “big 5” – Lion, Water Buffalo, Leopard, Elephant and Rhino. We had been fortunate previously, in that we had already seen three of the five in Botswana – Lion, Water Buffalo and Elephant.

The search was on in earnest for the elusive Leopard and the endangered Rhinoceros.

Our assigned guide Sibu, confided in me that he was the Supervisory Ranger, in charge of seventeen other rangers in this park, and did not often give guided tours. However, “apparently Khosi had some pull at the lodge and had insisted he be our guide on this occasion”

We soon found out why. He was incredible. He had studied biology, botany, astrology and an untold number of other “ologies” that he humbly failed to mention. The man was an encyclopedia of knowledge and it became very clear that we were lucky to have him as our guide. THANKS KHOSI!

Sibu was a constant source of knowledge on African wildlife, trees, insects, and even the stars above. He regaled us with information about specific trees which had roots that travelled over one hundred km underground; bushes with leaves, that if rubbed between your fingers, turn into a creamy substance, good for the skin: bushes that had leaves one could use to brush your teeth: a chameleon that incredibly he saw at night while driving down the bush road; a blue duiker – one of the very smallest of the African antelope family…..and so much more. Too much for my tiny brain to retain.

For me one of the most interesting facts (since I am not a snake lover), was an apparent near encounter with a Black Mamba. While driving slowly through the labyrinth of roads in the park, Sibu suddenly stopped. He turned to us and said “does anyone smell currie?”. Backing up slowly, he stopped again, and yes there was indeed a distinct currie smell. He simply said “black mamba” – sat there briefly and drove on. One of the most venomous snakes in the world.

The Hunt

Pilanesberg National Park was polar opposite to Botswana. Whereas Chobe National Park was full of wonder at every turn – elephants to the right, lions to the left, hippos poking their huge bodies out of the water to take a breath – this experience was much more of a hunt for Red October. While some animals, like the impala were in abundance, many others were much more elusive.

There were of course elephants, but not in the numbers we had encountered before. We did see a number of zebras, but not in herds like you see on television – a few here and there, but beautiful nonetheless.

Rhinos are at constant risk of poachers. Apparently one rhino horn is worth up to $250K on the black market. To combat this, the park takes extraordinary measures, such as employing trainers and their search dogs to track down bad actors, using drones to monitor the expansive territory (572 square km), and finally, to cut of the rhino’s horn to make the animal useless to poachers.

While we were there, a rhino had gotten its horn stuck in a tire, and animal rescue had to find it by drone, tranquilize it, and remove the tire – animal rescue at its finest.

Leopard!

The leopard seemed to be the most elusive of our camera “prey”.

Our group saw a cheetah early during our stay. It had recently made a kill (impala) and had dragged it into some bushes quite some distance from the road, so our group was barely able to see it. However, I did get this shot from our other group members. The only thing better would have been to see it make the kill – gory perhaps, but fascinating nonetheless.

For the curious among us: Cheetah Vs Leopard: 7 Key Differences Between These Big Cats

Someone once asked me what animal I was most looking forward to seeing. For me it was without doubt, the leopard. It was getting late in our adventure, and as yet, my curiosity had not been satisfied.

However, on our final day – Eureka!

We watched this huge cat walk out of the savannah, cross right in front of our vehicle (a little close for our guide’s liking apparently). He had our front window down for a better view and expressed a little concern later that these cats are unpredictable and he was wary of it making a sudden detour into our cab! Glad he kept that little nugget to himself!!!

Curiosity may kill the cat, but mine was completely satisfied at this point. Mission accomplished!

Mustafa

After several long days of early mornings and late night safaris, Karen and I decided to take the final morning off for a sleep in. Only the keeners got up for one last search for a male lion. While we had seen several males in Botswana, none were mature enough to have grown their mane to truly look like the king of the jungle!

Kudos to those few hardy souls and thanks for sharing your pictures.

On our final evening safari, we saw the chameleon and a porcupine, but no lion. However, near the end of that safari, our ever diligent Sibu suddenly stopped the vehicle and said “listen”. In the distance, he had hear a roar. Identifying it’s whereabouts this evening would be difficult, but he vowed to take a closer look in the morning.

And there he was! Worth the extra early morning for those who went. Right Sue?

Our Close Encounter

We tend to forget that these are wild animals. Albeit ones that are very used to human’s (via SUVs) being nearby. People get complacent, and sometimes pay the price for being foolish. We sometimes read stories about these tragic incidents from time to time.

Khosi once lead a group of people on a safari and had a traveler gored by a warthog – taking for granted it’s seemingly calm demeanor. Sadly that individual paid the ultimate price having been gored in the throat.

While we had encountered many elephants throughout our journey, some crossing our path literally a few yards away, some with babies, some wagged their heads at us, as they crossed – but none had had made us feel we were in any danger.

That was about to change.

On our way back to the lodge after an afternoon safari, we encountered a big bull elephant on the road. This was not the first time, but this guy was not moving out of the way.

Once again, we found ourselves very fortunate to have the incomparable Sibu at the helm.

As was often the case on these safaris, when an animal was discovered by one guide – no matter the geographic location in the park – they radioed to others to come see – always trying to maximize the experience for all involved.

Our crew was the first to encounter this big boy. Sibu began to educate us in his calm and deliberate cadence:

“This bull is in musth (horny), evidenced by the way he swings his tail, and the urine stains down his leg. His head and ears wagging menacingly, he is not to be trifled with. We will give him some space and allow him to wander off, at his own leisure.”

The bull would turn and look at us, then proceed to eat some branches on the trees at the side of the road. Then he would turn away from us and lumber down the road. Sibu, while keeping a safe distance would follow slowly, anticipating the elephant would wander into the bush and we would pass by and be on our way.

Sensing us behind him, the big guy would turn and slowing amble back toward us. At which point Sibu would reverse us to a safe distance once again – all the while imparting further knowledge on the bull elephant and why they act like they do.

This cat and mouse game went on for some time – perhaps a half hour. The elephant would move forward, we would follow. He would turn and shake his head at us, moving his tail in a particular manner – we would retreat.

All this time, more vehicles were lining up behind us, making it more difficult to back up in unison.

Private vehicles are allowed in the park, and one had made its way between several safari units. Not being able to communicate via radio to this vehicle soon became a problem.

The bull was getting increasingly agitated. As we began to back up yet again, the private vehicle was causing congestion – and an inability for everyone to back up in unison.

Simultaneously the elephant decided he had had enough of this, and began getting closer to us. Sibu, unable to back up, began yelling at the vehicles behind us to move, other guides started yelling as well to those behind them, But the car panicked and suddenly took off, barely getting by the elephant as he sped between vehicles, and further startling the bull.

As the car passed us, our guide yelled “you freaking idiot, you are gonna get us killed”! But we were not out of the savannah just yet.

As the big boy came increasingly closer to us, Sibu started to snap his fingers at the elephant – apparently distracting him long enough for us to get by and to safety.

Disaster averted!

I did ask him at one point if the guides carry firearms for this reason. Not necessarily for elephants, but for other animals that may go rogue. Surprisingly to me, he said no. Basically if it came down to that, they “don’t want to think about it”.

I guess nature really does take its course!

Next stop Cape Town.

Aweeee Collette Aweeee!!!